Wednesday, July 13, 2005

Tufi

After some time in Port Moresby, Larissa and I flew out to Tufi. An incredible place that had wonderful diving, snorkelling, seafood and every other sort of relaxing tropical pastime. (Beware of the ping pong though, it seems to send some people into a crazy road rage).

The highlights of our time there was visiting some nearby villages. Kofure was our first visit. A journey by truck and then outrigger canoe was spectacular as we crossed fiords and reefs. Once we got there we were greeted by Davison the local elder, and then treated to a traditional welcome of song and dance. After a short tour of the area, the villagers all turned out with their goods to sell.

It was an odd experience. The market is a cash lifeline for this traditional community that cuts out the middle man. And yet there was something slightly unsettling about trawling up and down the rows of bilums, necklaces and tapa cloths under the eye of everyone from the village. It was a bit like a set show, they knew what we were after, we knew what they were hoping for. Each of us in an unusual position, trying to be something other than our normal roles. Maybe as Larissa commented, it was simply that we wished we could buy something from all of them. But I couldn't help feel like a colonial master surveying the village and bestowing my reward on whoever pleased me most.

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